Today’s HDTV landscape is bustling with choices that go well beyond simply choosing how big a screen you want. To help narrow the field, we suggest starting with Display Types and Display Technologies to figure out what kind of TV will best suit your lifestyle — and budget.

Understanding the Technology
It’s easy to get inundated with buzzwords, acronyms, and abbreviations. We help you sort them out.
         Display Types Direct-view CRT | Rear projection | Flat Panels | Front projection
         Display Technologies CRT | Plasma | DLP | LCD | LCoS
         Resolution: What's HDTV and What Isn't
         Aspect Ratio: Widescreen vs. Standard
         Color Temperature
         Screen Size
         Contrast Ratio
         Interlacing, Deinterlacing, and Scaling
         Understanding Our Lab Data

Shopping Tips
Before heading for the stores with your wish list in hand, here are some fundamentals to keep in mind.

Setup
Everything you need to know to get your new high-def set hooked up right and looking great
         How to Set Up Your HDTV
         Connections
         Getting High-Def Shows

More Information
Visit the HDTV Info Center for more ideas, information, and reviews on the latest in HDTV technology.


sv_approved_50x49.gifCheck out S&V's Best, our recommendations on the best gear to buy right now.

Shopping Tips
Before heading for the stores with your wish list in hand, here are some fundamentals to keep in mind.

Stick with Reputable Brands and Retailers
Be wary of deals that seem too good to be true — especially online. While megastores can offer a big selection and big discounts, specialty retailers may have dedicated home theater demo rooms and can offer much more personal service.

Consider Spending a Little More than You’d Planned
You may find that going a little over budget will get you a bigger screen, noticeably better picture quality, or useful features that might be costly or impossible to add later. Over the long haul, you will almost always be happier if you go ahead and spend the money. Remember: the average time to replacement for a new TV set is about 10 years! On that basis, even an extra $1,000 is just $100 per year.

Bring Demo Discs You Know and Love
The video feeds to TV sets in dealer showrooms vary enormously in quality and are often rather poor. Taking along some well-made, familiar DVDs of your own can make evaluations and comparisons easier, more accurate, and more reliable. The Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-Up DVD is excellent for evaluating video performance. Also excellent are the Avia Guide to Home Theater from Ovation Software and Digital Video Essentials from Joe Kane Productions.

If Possible, Optimize Each Set’s Picture Before Evaluation
Manufacturers typically ship TVs with their picture settings adjusted for maximum “pop” on a showroom floor. Contrast, color, and sharpness settings will almost always be too high out of the box. Like a speaker with pumped-up bass, the TV may seem impressive on first look, but it won’t wear well over time. And the picture will look worse in a critical viewing than it would with correct settings. Make things right if you can before you evaluate picture quality. The Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-Up DVD is an excellent tool for this purpose, but just switching to a preset labeled something like "Movie" or "Pro" and selecting the "Warm" color-temperature setting often helps a lot.

Take Your Time
Don’t let anyone rush you. Sure, you’ll probably want to buy something right now, but resist those impulses.

Don’t Neglect the Boring Details
Make sure the TV will fit where you intend to place it. Sounds obvious, but . . . And make sure you have the types and lengths of cable you need. Once you get your gear home and are ready to set it up, you’re not going to want to go back to the store to get a longer component-video cable or an HDMI-to-DVI adapter.

Back to HDTV Overview | Back to Resource Center Home

Shopping Tips
Before heading for the stores with your wish list in hand, here are some fundamentals to keep in mind.

Stick with Reputable Brands and Retailers
Be wary of deals that seem too good to be true — especially online. While megastores can offer a big selection and big discounts, specialty retailers may have dedicated home theater demo rooms and can offer much more personal service.

Consider Spending a Little More than You’d Planned
You may find that going a little over budget will get you a bigger screen, noticeably better picture quality, or useful features that might be costly or impossible to add later. Over the long haul, you will almost always be happier if you go ahead and spend the money. Remember: the average time to replacement for a new TV set is about 10 years! On that basis, even an extra $1,000 is just $100 per year.

Bring Demo Discs You Know and Love
The video feeds to TV sets in dealer showrooms vary enormously in quality and are often rather poor. Taking along some well-made, familiar DVDs of your own can make evaluations and comparisons easier, more accurate, and more reliable. The Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-Up DVD is excellent for evaluating video performance. Also excellent are the Avia Guide to Home Theater from Ovation Software and Digital Video Essentials from Joe Kane Productions.

If Possible, Optimize Each Set’s Picture Before Evaluation
Manufacturers typically ship TVs with their picture settings adjusted for maximum “pop” on a showroom floor. Contrast, color, and sharpness settings will almost always be too high out of the box. Like a speaker with pumped-up bass, the TV may seem impressive on first look, but it won’t wear well over time. And the picture will look worse in a critical viewing than it would with correct settings. Make things right if you can before you evaluate picture quality. The Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-Up DVD is an excellent tool for this purpose, but just switching to a preset labeled something like "Movie" or "Pro" and selecting the "Warm" color-temperature setting often helps a lot.

Take Your Time
Don’t let anyone rush you. Sure, you’ll probably want to buy something right now, but resist those impulses.

Don’t Neglect the Boring Details
Make sure the TV will fit where you intend to place it. Sounds obvious, but . . . And make sure you have the types and lengths of cable you need. Once you get your gear home and are ready to set it up, you’re not going to want to go back to the store to get a longer component-video cable or an HDMI-to-DVI adapter.

Back to HDTV Overview | Back to Resource Center Home

Display Types

Direct-view CRT | Rear projection | Flat Panels | Front projection | Back to HDTV Overview

Direct-view CRT (cathode-ray tube)
Tube TVs have been around for decades, and though they’re slowly going away as big-name brands focus on new technologies, the best of the breed can still deliver superb pictures. And they’re affordable ($1,000 or less, with come sets available for as little as $500 or $600). But the screens on direct-view models are relatively small — 34 inches at the most nowadays — and their cabinets are bulky and very heavy. (They’re called “direct-view” because you look right at the tube, unlike rear-projection CRT TVs, in which the beams from separate red, green, and blue tubes combine to form a full-color image on the screen.)

Rear Projection (RPTV)
Many people associate “rear projection” with fuzzy, out-of-focus images unwatchable from anywhere other than right in front of the screen. But today’s rear-projection TVs (RPTVs) bear little resemblance to their poor-performing ancestors. New "microdisplay" technologies such as DLP (Digital Light Processing) and LCoS (liquid crystal on silicon, a.k.a. Direct-drive Light Amplifier, or D-ILA, and Silicon X-tal Reflective Display, or SXRD) deliver stunningly bright, detailed pictures from their tiny imaging chips and permit far wider viewing angles than traditional CRT-based RPTVs. And though they do tend to cost a little more, the premium is not necessarily large, with 50-inch microdisplay sets going for as little as $1,500 and 61-inch LCD models for just over $2,000. CRT models, on the other hand, still offer the biggest screens for the lowest prices, with models in the 50-inch range hugging close to $1,000. There aren't many left, however, and it would not be surprising if CRTs were to vanish from RPTVs altogether in the near future.

Sizewise, RPTV screens range from 42 to almost 80 inches diagonal. These big screens used to mean big — and heavy — floorstanding cabinets, but the newer technologies have allowed for much slimmer designs, many less than 17 inches deep for a 50-inch screen and some only 7 to 10 inches. Plus, most weigh only about 100 pounds (or less) and are designed to be mounted on a stand or in a cabinet. All current rear-projection TVs are widescreen (16:9) high-definition models, usually with 720p or 1080p resolution.

Flat Panels
The sexiest designs by far are flat, hang-on-the-wall plasma and LCD sets. Measuring less than 5 inches thick, these high-tech marvels provide amazingly bright pictures while taking up virtually no space. LCD owns the market at sizes less than 40 inches and has rapidly increased its presence among larger screens, where plasma once stood alone. Prices increase dramatically with size, however, especially for the LCD models. LCD sets range from 10-inch models selling for about $250 up to 65 inchers that go for more than $10,000. Plasma displays start with 37- and 42-inch models priced as low as $1,200 and go up to 65 inches at a list price of about $10,000. Larger displays (up to 108 inches) based on both technologies have been shown but are not widely available.

Both plasma and LCD sets offer bright, detailed images, are very resistant to glare, and and can be viewed from well off to the side. That said, plasmas typically offer a wider viewing angle and may be preferred in rooms that are not strongly lit. LCDs excel in sunlit and other intensely illuminated environments. Historically, the weakest points of plasma and LCD displays have been susceptibility to image burn-in and blurring of fast motion, respectively, but both technologies have improved to the extent that these are much smaller issues than they once were.

Front Projection
For the ultimate home theater experience, a front projector is the thing. Similar to movie-theater projectors because they project the image onto a screen on the other side of the room, these models can create detailed images as big as the side of your house — though 80 to 120 inches is typical. And a front-projection system can disappear when not in use. With a motorized screen and recessed projector mount, even the largest screen and projector can completely vanish. Three-tube CRT front projectors, which once ruled this market, have essentially vanished, replaced by smaller, cheaper, more installation-friendly technologies such as LCD ($1,600 and up for a high-def projector), DLP ($1,000 and up), and LCoS ($5,000 and up). The new technologies use a single lens instead of a CRT projector’s three, making them easier to install and maintain. Entry-level models start at less than $700 but have only EDTV resolution. If, on the other hand, you still crave the CRT look, it can be yours — for a mere $20,000 or so.

Back to HDTV Overview | Back to Resource Center Home

Display Technologies

CRT | Plasma | DLP | LCD | LCoS | Back to HDTV Overview

CRT
Cathode-ray tube technology was used in the very first TVs, and after all these years, it’s still a common and inexpensive way to get a video image into your home. Direct-view CRTs are the familiar glass-fronted TV sets, which have evolved to include flat-glass and widescreen varieties. Rear- and front-projection CRTs use three tubes side by side (one each for red, green, and blue) to create an image that’s then sprayed onto a large screen.

How It Works — A direct-view tube contains a “gun” consisting of a cathode that emits three distinct invisible electron beams and anodes that accelerate them. The beams are aimed at red, green, and blue phosphors set into the screen, which glow to produce the picture. (A metal grid on the tube’s inside face, called a shadow mask, helps keep the beams on target.) Combining the three primary colors in varying proportions produces the full color range.

In the three-tube designs used in big-screen projection TVs, each tube fires at its own small screen coated with a single phosphor color. Lenses and mirrors focus the colored images onto the viewing screen. The tubes must be perfectly aligned (“converged”), or else distortions such as red or blue fringes around objects will appear.

Pros
•Less expensive than competing technologies (except for front projection).
•Reliable. Direct-view tubes last ten years or longer with little or no maintenance.
•Very good picture quality, though the technology no longer has the commanding edge it once enjoyed over others with respect to reproduction of deep black and shadow detail.

Cons
•Big and heavy.
•Direct-view screen sizes top out at 36 inches.
•Susceptible to burn-in, and CRT projection sets are subject to convergence errors as well. They don’t do as well as the other technologies with ambient room light and produce images that usually look less sharp — although with careful adjustment a CRT projection set can look just as sharp as a flat-panel TV.

Where It’s At — Having graced American living rooms for the past half-century, direct-view sets are fading fast in popularity, especially in the high-end market. Big-screen projection CRTs have largely been overtaken by lighter, shallower TVs based on other technologies.

Plasma
Just 3 to 6 inches thick, plasma TVs can be set up next to or mounted on a wall, preserving precious room space. Screen sizes range from 37 inches diagonal to a cinematic 70 inches, and models as large as 108 inches have been shown.

How It Works — Each pixel in a plasma display consists of three gas-filled sub-pixels (cells) coated with red, green, or blue phosphor. Electrodes above and below the cells (the top electrode layer is transparent) jolt them with varying amounts of voltage. This excites the gas in the cells to a plasma state, stimulating the phosphors to produce colored light.

Pros
•Uniformly bright picture over a wide viewing angle — even in a brightly lit room.
•Svelte design and large screen size.
•Wide 16:9 aspect ratio screen and on nearly all current models enough pixels for HDTV resolution.

Cons
•Can be expensive, especially for screens larger than 50 inches.
•On some sets, the black parts of the picture, such as dark shadows or letterbox bars on widescreen movies, look dark gray instead of black. (The best models now do pretty well, however.)
•Subject to burn-in, where an image becomes permanently etched onto the screen. But this won’t happen unless you leave a bright stationary image on the screen for hours at a time. Recent models have burn-in prevention features, such as “pixel orbiters,” which exercise pixels by slowly shifting an image around the display.

Where It’s At — Plasmas are available from many manufacturers, with 42-inch high-definition models available for as little as $1,200 and 50-inch displays starting at about $1,800. Expect to pay more for top performance, cutting edge features (such as 1080p resolution), or a really huge screen, however.

DLP
Rear-projection TVs can be slimmed down to less than 1.5 feet deep when chips are used in place of CRTs. One fixed-pixel technology, Texas Instruments’ Digital Light Processing (DLP), also offers a high-quality, less-expensive alternative to CRTs for front projectors.

How It Works — High-def DLP TVs use a 16:9 chip, called a Digital Micromirror Device (DMD), packed with a million or more individually hinged and controlled “micromirrors” that pivot to reflect light from a lamp through a lens onto a screen. DLP sets fall mainly into two camps. Single-chip RPTVs and front projectors filter white light from the lamp through a rapidly spinning color wheel to produce color, while the more expensive ($15,000 and up) three-chip front projectors dedicate one chip each to red, green, and blue. (Some single-chip DLP rear-projectors now use high-intensity color LEDs instead of a white lamp, eliminating the need for a color wheel.)

Pros
•Though it still can’t yet reproduce dark scenes quite as well as the best CRTs can, DLP can now come very close. DLP sets typically achieve deeper, more realistic shadows and blacks than LCD models and are comparable to plasmas and LCoS displays in this characteristic.
•Because the DMD mirrors are so close together, DLP sets normally don’t have a problem with the “screen door” effect (a faint image of the pixel grid) that was especially noticeable with early LCD projectors.
•No danger of screen burn-in.
•DLP front projectors can cost much less than comparable CRT models, while DLP rear-projection TVs now challenge CRT models in price and are much slimmer and lighter.

Cons
•DLP rear-projection TVs are somewhat more expensive than the same-size CRT sets.
•A small percentage of people occasionally see “rainbows” in images produced by single-chip DLP projectors with color wheels: fleeting separations of the three primary colors into narrow streaks at the edges of moving objects. Incidence of this effect has been dramatically reduced as projectors have moved from the three- and four-segment color wheels of early designs to faster-spinning six-, seven-, and eight-segment wheels, however, and it is completely eliminated in models that use LED or laser light sources instead of conventional white lamps.

Where It’s At — Many manufacturers offer DLP RPTVs, with prices starting at about $1,500. And don’t rule out DLP front projectors. Basic models start at around $700, while HDTV-ready models go from about $1,000 up.

LCD
The granddaddy of fixed-pixel technologies, LCDs (liquid-crystal displays) first appeared in pocket calculators in the early 1970s. The technology is amazingly versatile, able to power front projectors, rear-projection TVs, and flat-panel displays.

How It Works — A matrix of thin-film transistors (TFTs) supplies voltage to liquid crystal-filled cells sandwiched between two sheets of glass. As with plasma panels, a trio of red, green, and blue cells make up one pixel. When hit with an electrical charge, the crystals “untwist,” allowing light generated by a lamp behind the screen (for flat-panel TVs) or a lamp shining through a small LCD chip (for projection TVs) to filter through. The higher the voltage, the more a cell “opens up.”

Pros
•Direct-view models are only a few inches deep, and their pictures hold up well in bright light.
•Using the same wattage lamp, a typical LCD projector will create a brighter image than a DLP model — but most DLP projectors produce enough light for just about any viewing.

Cons
•Of the fixed-pixel technologies, LCD has the most trouble with blacks. Some light always passes through (the cells are never completely opaque), so the best black is usually a very dark gray. Flat-panel LCDs are significantly better in this respect than they were a few years ago, however.
•Because of how light goes through LCD cells, flat-panel displays usually have narrower viewing angles than plasma TVs.
•Low-resolution LCDs show pixelation and screen-door effects on big screens. Front projectors with XGA (1,024 x 768) or higher resolution have a reduced screen-door effect.
•Flat-panel LCDs may sometimes blur fast motion. The latest models have greatly reduced this tendency, however.

Where It’s At — Prices have tumbled, with 42-inch rear-projection models available for as little as $1,500 and 42-inch flat panels for even less. LCD front projectors are priced competitively with DLP models but are less numerous.

LCoS
The least-familiar player at the fixed-pixel poker table, LCoS (liquid crystal on silicon) owes most of its technological heritage to LCD. But it can outperform LCD because it uses smaller pixels that provide higher resolution and almost eliminate the screen-door effect. After years of technical struggles, LCoS has finally emerged as a mainstream display technology, especially in rear-projection TVs. (JVC calls its version of LCoS “D-ILA,” for Direct-drive Image Light Amplifier, while Sony uses “SXRD,” for Silicon X-tal Reflective Display.)

How It Works — LCoS borrows from both LCD and DLP technology. As with LCD, each pixel in an LCoS display has liquid crystals that untwist to transmit light, and — as the name indicates — these crystals are applied to a silicon chip instead of sandwiched between glass. As in DLP, light is reflected off the chip toward a screen. LCoS front projectors and RPTVs can be designed with either a single chip, using a color wheel or prisms to separate the light, or three chips, one for each primary color.

Pro
•LCoS rear-projection TVs are high-resolution displays (typically 1080p) with tight pixel spacing, yielding an extremely detailed yet smooth image, especially on a very large screen.

Cons
•Can be expensive.
•Struggles to reproduce deep blacks, though performance is getting distinctly better.

Where It’s At — LCoS has had a somewhat tortured history, with most companies who have adopted it bailing out soon thereafter (apparently because the chips are very hard to manufacture in quantity). Still, the technology’s resolution capability makes it a real contender among fixed-pixel displays, especially for exceptionally large screens. JVC, which has championed LCoS for years with its high-end D-ILA front projectors, now has some RPTV models, and Sony has made a substantial commitment with its SXRD projectors.

Back to HDTV Overview | Back to Resource Center Home

Screen Size
Screen size normally is measured diagonally, from bottom left corner to top right (or top left to bottom right), in inches. The only time this is ever tricky is when you’re comparing screens with different aspect ratios. Because a 16:9 screen, such as you’d typically find on an HDTV set, is wider relative to its height than a traditional, almost-square 4:3 screen, the same diagonal measurement can represent two very different display shapes. In particular, the height of a 16:9 widescreen display will be less than that of a 4:3 display with the same diagonal measurement.

Aspect Ratio: Widescreen vs. Standard
One of the first things you’ll notice when you walk into a store is that most HDTVs have screens that are almost twice as wide as they are tall — in other words, the screen’s aspect ratio is 16:9 instead of the squarish 4:3 you’re used to. This widescreen aspect ratio was adopted because it is a better match to the shape of the human visual field, is mathematically related in a simple way to the old 4:3 ratio, and is almost exactly the same as the ratio used for most movies made in the last 50 years. Besides movies, widescreen is also great for sports, delivering more of the action — a third more!

Resolution: What's HDTV and What Isn't
Historically, a TV’s vertical resolution has been given as the number of horizontal scan lines, or pixel rows, displayed from top to bottom of the screen, multiplied by 0.7 (the Kell factor, which adjusts for certain effects that reduce perceived resolution). Its horizontal resolution has been the maximum number of vertical lines, or pixel columns, discernible from left to right across a screen width equal to the screen height. (Measured this way, broadcast NTSC TV, with 480 picture-carrying scan lines per frame, has a resolution of approximately 335 lines, both horizontally and vertically, while DVD boosts the maximum horizontal resolution to 540 lines.) Since the advent of digital TV, however, standard practice has increasingly followed that of the computer industry, giving vertical resolution simply as the number of horizontal scan lines or pixel rows displayed and horizontal resolution as the number of discernible vertical lines or pixel columns across the entire screen width.

One of the two commonly used high-def signal formats is 720p (progressive-scan), which has 720 pixel rows and 1,280 pixel columns video per frame. The other is 1080i (interlaced), which has 1,080 pixel rows and 1,920 pixel columns per frame. Both use a 16:9 widescreen frame, and if you do the math you will discover that in both formats the number of pixel columns across a width equal to the screen height is the same as the number of pixel rows. The pixels are thus said to be square.

It would be nice if all HDTVs had resolutions matching one or both of the broadcast standards, but the specs can vary a lot — especially among two kinds of fixed-pixel displays, plasma and LCD. Some screens might match up perfectly with one of the high-def formats, but many have native resolutions such as 1,024 x 1,024 pixels or 768 x 1,366 pixels, so the TVs convert incoming video to match. These models are still considered HDTVs, which have come to be defined as any sets that can display at least 720 pixel rows or scan lines.

Color Temperature
In the video world, every color and shade is produced by different combinations of red, green, and blue light at different levels of intensity. Full black is a complete absence of light, and peak white is produced by an equal mix of colors at maximum intensity. The grayscale is the range of steps between full black and peak white. Ideally, the only thing that changes from one shade of gray to the next is the intensity of the light, not the color mix. For various reasons, however, most video displays find it hard to reproduce full black — CRTs do this best. Peak white also varies from the ideal, the variations being measured in terms of color temperature, which for a TV can range from 4,000 to 5,000 K (or kelvins), orangeish whites as from an ordinary incandescent light bulb, to well over 10,000 K, a bluish white produced by some high-intensity lamps. In 1953, the National Television System Committee (NTSC) decided that the correct shade of white for U.S. TVs is about 6,500 K, or the color of sunlight at noon on a clear day (at least under an unpolluted North American sky). The new ATSC digital TV system carries over the same color-temperature reference point.

Why does this matter? Since the largest part of a video signal consists of black-and-white information, any deviation from the white-level reference of 6,500 K — whether toward the red end of the spectrum or the blue end — will bias all images in the same way. More specifically, since the studio monitors used for color-correcting TV shows and DVD masters are calibrated to 6,500 K, your TV must be set to the same color temperature if you want it to accurately recreate the images.

Contrast Ratio
A technical spec that many manufacturers tout is contrast ratio, and it’s not unusual to see outrageously high claims, such as 10,000:1 or even higher. Unfortunately, marketing departments have glommed onto this spec, so the numbers should be taken with a grain of salt. These measurements are often not done uniformly or under “real world” viewing conditions. A properly calibrated CRT TV will yield a contrast ratio of 300:1 to 700:1, while some of the newer technologies, such as LCD and DLP (Digital Light Processing), can deliver up to 900:1. These figures are a lot lower than the hyped specs because the color temperature and white levels have been adjusted correctly and because they’re calculated using a checkerboard pattern rather than alternating white and dark screens.

Back to HDTV Overview | Back to Resource Center Home

Interlacing, Deinterlacing, and Scaling
Until recently, the basic technology behind television images was pretty cut and dried. In our analog system, the video stream consists of 30 complete frames per second (fps), a frame being a complete still picture created by 480 active scan lines running horizontally across the screen. (The total number of lines in a frame is 525, but that includes lines in what is known as the vertical blanking interval, or VBI, which carry no picture information.) Each frame is split into two fields, each of which contains every other scan line. The fields are transmitted and displayed sequentially, so that the first field of a frame is completely scanned, and then the lines of the second field are scanned between those of the first. This is known as interlaced scanning. Interlacing is surprisingly effective. However, if you compare a scene shot and displayed in standard analog format, now known as 480i, with the same scene displayed using progressive scanning — in which all the lines in each frame are displayed sequentially instead of being divided into two interlaced fields — the progressive-scan version will look cleaner and smoother. (This is how all computer monitors work.) That format is called 480p, the number indicating the active scan lines and the “i” or “p” the scanning method.

The process of converting video from interlaced to progressive scanning is known as “deinterlacing.” Although it seems straightforward enough to combine two fields of a frame and display them all at once, there are a couple of gotchas. The first is that when video is shot in interlaced format — which is how most TV and video cameras operate — the fields are shot sequentially, with the second field of a frame acquired a sixtieth of a second after the first. Any motion that occurs between the two will cause “jaggies” if the two fields are just slapped together and displayed simultaneously. Consequently, a deinterlacer must incorporate sophisticated motion-compensation techniques to achieve good results with typical video-originated material, and some are distinctly better than others in this regard.

The second potential issue arises with material originally shot on film. When film is transferred to video, it is normally converted from its native frame rate of 24 fps (frames per second) to the interlaced 30 fps employed by most TV sets, using a method called 2:3 (or 3:2) pulldown to pad out the sequence with a repeated field every other frame. Video originated from film can be deinterlaced perfectly to 60-fps progressive-scan format, but only if the deinterlacer correctly detects and compensates for the 2:3 pulldown. If it doesn’t, it will create some video frames out of fields from two different film frames, causing an ugly artifact called “combing” if there is any motion between those original frames. This is why 2:3 pulldown compensation is so important in a progressive-scan DVD player.

With the advent of HDTV, it has become important in TV sets as well. An HDTV set has to handle at least four basic video formats: regular old 480i standard-definition (SD) for conventional analog broadcasts and videotapes, 480p SD (mainly from progressive-scan DVD players), and the two widescreen high-definition (HD) formats, 720p and 1080i, which provide much greater picture detail. An HDTV set should, therefore, be able to accommodate inputs in a number of scan formats and in both 4:3 and 16:9 aspect ratios for standard-definition signals (4:3 is not used for high-definition broadcasts).

It’s possible to design a CRT display to handle all of those formats directly, which is what high-end CRT front projectors typically do. But since it’s cheaper to convert some formats to others than to make a full-bore multiscanning monitor, most rear-projection and direct-view CRT sets take the conversion approach. And in the case of fixed-pixel displays, such as LCD, DLP, LCoS, and plasma, all incoming signals must be converted to a progressive-scan format that exactly matches the display’s pixel array. Most digital CRT sets work at 480p and 1080i and convert every other incoming signal to one of those native formats. That usually means 480i gets bumped up to 480p and, if the set has a built-in HDTV tuner, 720p gets converted to 1080i. (Because 720p actually has the highest data bandwidth and horizontal scan rate, it is easier from the display-design standpoint to convert it “up” to 1080i than to step 1080i “down.”) The process of converting between scan formats is known as scaling, and interlaced signals must be deinterlaced prior to any other processing. So deinterlacing is a critical function in all HDTV sets, especially those based on fixed-pixel displays, which in turn means that 2:3 pulldown compensation is important, since much of what is broadcast on TV was originally shot on film.

Scaling is hard to do, and bad scaling can look really, really bad (especially if it starts off with mediocre deinterlacing). Historically, good scalers have been very expensive, even if all they did was line-double 480i to 480p. And the very best scalers, from companies such as Faroudja, Key Digital, and Runco, are still very pricey. The good news is that the growing need for video scaling has led to substantial progress further down the food chain — a trend that will surely continue. Still, before you buy any set with built-in scaling — a category that includes all HDTV sets and all fixed-pixel displays — cast a critical eye on how it looks with a variety of input signals. Pay special attention to what the set does with ordinary analog signals from cable or broadcast TV, which tend to give crummy scalers the biggest fits. Look particularly at what happens around the edges of moving objects. (Problems are often most apparent on slowly moving objects in the background.) Jagged or fuzzy edges or halos around objects are a bad sign. Poor handling of analog TV signals might not matter much ten years from now, but it could make you pretty unhappy in the meantime. You should also make sure the set provides 2:3 pulldown detection and compensation for film-originated programs.

Understanding Our Lab Data
How to read our lab tests for TVs.

Back to HDTV Overview | Back to Resource Center Home

Setup
You can find everything you need to know to get your new high-def set hooked up right and looking great in our "Back to Basics" article How to Set Up Your New HDTV.

Connections
Perplexed by mysterious jacks on your A/V gear? Our comprehensive guide will help you hook it all up.

Getting High-Def Shows
Something to think about while you’re shopping is where you’ll get those gorgeous high-def images. Depending on where you live, you might have several options:

  • Off-Air
    If you’re near a large city, you can probably get at least some HDTV programming through an off-air antenna (provided you have a digital tuner either built into the TV or as an outboard box). Yes, this giant step forward in technology can be yours by using an old-fashioned antenna. This is definitely the cheapest way to get high-def shows, since off-air HDTV is free — just like regular TV. (See HDTV Over the Air.)
  • Cable
    If there aren’t any stations nearby, or you don’t want to bother with an antenna, call your cable company and see if it offers high-def programming. You can get HDTV via cable in most major cities, and it’s quickly becoming available elsewhere in the U.S. For a monthly fee — typically less than $10 — your cable company will provide you with a box that can receive high-def shows. (Many current cable boxes have analog component-video outputs, but ones with DVI or HDMI digital outputs are becoming more common. Also, a technology called CableCARD, similar to the smart cards used in digital satellite receivers, is available for TVs with CableCARD slots. The card lets you receive premium channels without a cable box, but you can’t use video on demand or the cable company’s electronic program guide (see Wild Card).
  • Satellite
    Getting high-def signals via satellite is another option. Service is available nationwide — DirecTV and Dish Network both provide high-def programming.
Sound
Choosing the right speakers is the key to getting great sound. The Surround Sound section of our Resource Center will help you find the speakers that are perfect for you!

Back to HDTV Overview | Back to Resource Center Home