Set the Triton Three’s subwoofer level control right and you’ll get smooth response all the way from 29 Hz to 20 kHz. Off-axis response is great even at ±45° and ±60°, with nothing but a nice, clean treble roll-off at frequencies above 15 kHz. Output of the subwoofer section is modest but deep, averaging 108.7 dB in the low bass (40-63 Hz) and 97.5 dB in the ultra-low bass (20-31.5 Hz). That’s just for one speaker, though — the second speaker will add an average of +6 dB to the bass output, although the effects will vary with frequency because of room acoustics.
Whenever I strongly recommend a product, I often worry that a Sound+Vision reader might buy it and not like it despite its strengths, but I have no such concerns with the Triton Three. It’s simply one of the best tower speakers I’ve reviewed at any price. The fact that it sounds this good at just below $2,000 per pair makes it a truly outstanding buy.
Frequency response
29 Hz to 20 Hz ±3.6 dB
Sensitivity (SPL at 1 meter/1 watt)
85.9 dB
Impedance (minimum/nominal)
3.4/6 ohms
Bass output (CEA-2010 standard)
• Ultra-low bass (20-31.5 Hz) average: 97.5 dB
20 Hz, 92.1 dB
25 Hz, 98.9 dB
31.5 Hz, 99.7 dB
• Low bass (40-63 Hz) average: 108.7 dB
40 Hz, 109.4 dB
50 Hz, 109.5 dB
63 Hz, 106.9 dB
I measured the GoldenEar Technology Triton Three’s frequency response above 220 Hz using a Clio FW analyzer in quasi-anechoic MLS mode, with the measurement mike at a distance of 2 meters and signal level of 2.83 volts (1 watt at 8 ohms). I placed the speaker directly atop my measurement turntable and used 2 feet of attic insulation to absorb reflected sound from the ground. The measurement you see here is an average of responses at 0°, ±10°, ±20°, and ±30°, smoothed to 1/12th octave. The response of the subwoofer section was measured using close-miking, with the results of the woofer and the two passive radiators summed. To get the approximate sum of the subwoofer section and the midrange driver, I ran a ground-plane measurement, with the mike on the ground at a distance of 2 meters, then experimented with the subwoofer level control to get the flattest possible response. The curve you see here represents a splice of those three separate measurements. The frequency response measurements of the Triton Three are very smooth. Even way out at ±60°, there are no significant changes in response up to about 15 kHz. Above 15 kHz, there’s a heavy treble roll-off at angles of ±45° and greater (about -30 dB at 20 kHz). But for that little (and probably inaudible) dip at 4.5 kHz, the response would be within ±3 dB.
Minimum impedance is 3.4 ohms at 128 Hz with a phase angle of -31°; and the impedance runs below 5 ohms between 220 and 930 Hz. Impedance rises rapidly below 100 Hz as the signal is handed off to the internal amplifier. Still, using at least a decent midpriced receiver or amplifier rated into 4 ohms would be a good idea. Sensitivity (average of quasi-anechoic measurement from 300 Hz to 10 kHz at 1 meter at 0° with a 2.83 volts RMS signal) is 85.9 dB.
CEA-2010 output measurements for the subwoofer section were taken at 2 meters then scaled up +6 dB per CEA-2010 requirements. Averages are performed in pascals as per upcoming revisions to CEA-2010 that had not yet been published by our deadline. I tried measuring from the LFE input and from the speaker input (driven by a Krell S-300i amplifier); I got about 3 dB more output from the speaker input so those are the numbers I include here.
The output of the Triton Three’s subwoofer section is a little unusual, limited at the top end by its small woofer but reinforced at the bottom by its relatively large cabinet and dual passive radiators. Thus, it doesn’t deliver a lot of energy in the low bass (40-63 Hz) octave, yet it does have usable response all the way down to 20 Hz. Here’s the pascal averages (the new method) and the dB averages (the old method): low bass 108.7 dB/108.6 dB, ultra-low bass (20-31.5 Hz) 97.5 dB/96.9 dB.
These subwoofer section output numbers are for one Triton Three only. Adding the second tower should increase overall bass output by an average of +6 dB, although because of room acoustics the boost provided by the additional tower will vary with frequency. — Brent Butterworth
In his Test Report article posted on March 20th 2012, re: Goldenear Triton Three Speakers, Brent Butterworth mentioned that he had used a Denon surround sound Receiver as one of his components to test these speakers. Which model number did he use ? Look forward to hearing from you very soon..
I'm a Denon fan and need to update my current Receiver to accommodate HDMI etc. I also will be looking at these Speakers as part of my new set-up. The review was certainly very impressive.
Regards
Roger
Hi, Roger. I use a Denon AVR-2809CI, used as a preamp/processor only in conjunction with an AudioControl Savoy amp.
Mr. Butterworth-
You say that "Home theater enthusiasts, though, will almost surely want to add a sub or two" and that "the bottom octave-and-a-half wasn’t as smooth and even as I can get it in my room using standalone subwoofers. Such is the nature of tower speakers." I've often thought that a sub (typically placed off to one side) makes the sound feel "weighted" toward that side (even with the lowest possible crossover point set). But maybe I haven't heard a good-enough setup. Has S&V ever done tower vs. bookshelf+sub comparison tests?
In practical terms, my question is this: Do you think it would be better to add a sub or two (for say, $1000) to the Triton Three or just buy the Triton Two (about which your S&V colleague said "there was a bottomless quality; instead of rounding off at some distinct point, the low-end extension seemed to be without limits. The Triton Two's bass was without question the deepest, cleanest, and most nuanced I've yet heard in my room.")?
Or, if you believe low bass is inherently compromised in tower designs, would you say a combination of a sub with Goldenear's Aon 3 (essentially the upper part of the Triton3) is preferable?
Brent, Thanks for reviewing this smaller version of Triton Two. Weren't you tempted to compare the two speakers to hear how different they actually sound? Measurements, yes, we have them from the Triton Two review for comparison, but more meaningful (to the would be purchaser) would be a direct listening test with different types of source material. Do the extra drivers in the Two's influence sound quality, or just produce more headroom? Please don't take this unkindly... I just want more! more! more!
@loitering: The vast majority of the products sent to Sound+Vision (and other magazines and websites) have to be returned to the manufacturer. Manufacturers allocate only a few samples of any one product for reviews. Most reviewers are able to hang onto a few products here and there to use as a comparison standard, but no publication (or even more so, no freelance reviewer like me) has the resources to keep more than a few such products on hand - even if the manufacturers would allow it.
@freetrademan: I prefer subwoofer/satellite systems to tower speakers. Every home theater design and/or room acoustics professional I know shares this preference. Once you grasp the concept of the Schroeder frequency (http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/blog/2012/03/05/schroeder-frequency-sho...), there's no longer any serious argument.
The Triton Three and, even more so, the Triton Two both play low, but they don't have the driver real estate to match the output of high-performance subwoofers. A sub or tower speaker can play low without necessarily playing all that loud (or vice versa). To get high output at low frequencies, you need either large drivers, multiple midsize drivers, or very high-excursion drivers (a la Sunfire). Plus either a large box or a lot of amplifier power.
I can't endorse the Aon 3 without having heard it, but yes, I would gravitate toward satellites and a separate subwoofer (or two). But to each his own. If you like the form factor and setup simplicity of tower speakers, go for it.
Brent: Thanks for your reply. I understand the Schroeder frequency argument in favor of sub/sat systems. It certainly makes sense in theory. I understand that sounds below 80Hz aren't (or shouldn't be) localizable. Still, I find that I can clearly hear the low bass in music coming from the sub over there, rather than as part of the main speaker soundfield. The music sounds noticeably "weighted" toward the side.
(At the moment I'm listening to a 2.1 setup by Atlantic Tech (http://www.atlantictechnology.com/Upload/PDFs/manuals/discontinued/Sys45...). The sub is set at the lowest crossover (55Hz) and the level is just above minimum.)
Short of having two subs (L&R) or putting the sub dead center, what can I do to mitigate this "off-center" problem?
@Freetrademan: The frequency at which you begin to be able to localize sound is 70-90 Hz, depending on the person. (That's science, not me, talking.) That said, I've noticed that sometimes I get a sense of directionality when I place a sub in the corner. Not sure if that's a psychological effect or an actual audible effect, though.
Your ears simply can't localize sounds at 55 Hz and below. However, there are a couple of reasons you can get directionality even with a low crossover point. If the low-pass filter is relatively shallow (say, 2nd order), you'll get audible output even at an octave or more above the crossover point. Also, distortion will create audible harmonics above the crossover frequency, and the crossover doesn't filter those out.
That is a lovely system you have. I remember reviewing it when it first came out. I recommend double-checking your settings and wiring to make sure there's a crossover in that circuit somewhere. The sub's not in the manual you linked to. Do you have it plugged into an LFE input that bypasses the crossover? Or maybe there's a crossover bypass switch that's activated? If not, an outboard crossover might solve the problem.
@Brent: Yes, it is a lovely system. I'd love to read your old review. Can you link to it (or send it somehow)? The sub is the matching Atlantic Tech 452 (http://www.atlantictechnology.com/Upload/PDFs/manuals/discontinued/452PB... ) (Would you believe someone on Craigslist gave all this away for free?!)
I'm not sure about the crossover wiring. The Denon AVR-981 receiver (also part of the Craigslist find) simply has "Subwoofer out", not "LFE", which I connect to "Low Level IN" on the sub. No sign of a crossover bypass.
I've noticed this subwoofer directionality quite often, not just in this particular setup. I'll continue to experiment with crossover settings and sub placement to solve my dilemma. Thanks very much for your advice.
@Freetrademan: I recommend setting the front speaker size to small, then using the External Filter THX setting on your sub's crossover frequency control. This will use the Denon's internal 80 Hz crossover and may give you a much better blend between sats and subs, and also possibly eliminate that directionality you're hearing. It's certainly worth a try.
I'll try to find that old review. It was from Home Entertainment magazine, probably 2003 or 2004. I still have a few back issues. The measurements may be lost to the ages, though - we posted them on the web only and that old content has been lost through various ownership changes.
Brent, you expressed your preference for subwoofer/satellite systems. GoldenEar has the Super Cinema 3 and50 Systems. Have you heard or reviewed any of these? If so what is your opinion.
Regards, Roger
I was always taught that adding a second identical speaker would raise the spl by 3dB or double it.Yet in your review in the test bench section of the Triton 3's you state a second speaker would add 6dB on average or 4 times.How does this work?Thanks in advance.
hi Brent,
just wondering what do you think about combining the triton 3 with the martin logan electromotion C2 as the center speaker? the reason being when i went to the audio store they recommended it, i like the triton 3 a lot but with the center speaker you need to mount on a wall which i don't like much and the salesman said the tweeter GE uses is 99% similar with the ML C2. so please help me with that. many thanks!!
best regards, kenny.