Once the walls are up, use a stud finder to locate the studs that will frame the speaker. Typically, you'll be mounting it in the middle of the studs. (Some models have brackets that span the gap between them.) Almost every in-wall speaker comes with a cutout template, which you tape on the wall where you want the speaker located. Use a level to make sure the top of the template is parallel to the ceiling and the floor. Then use a pencil to trace the template's outline. A laser level can project a straight red beam of light a good distance, which can help align a second speaker to the first. Before you cut the opening, place the speaker up against the template to make sure the openings match.
Use a drywall, keyhole, or rotary saw to cut the outlined opening. Since wallboard is easy to cut, you shouldn't have any problems if you take your time. (The speaker's frame will hide any minor unevenness.) Keep the pieces of cutout wallboard in case you need to repair the wall and start over. If the speakers will be flanking a wall-mounted TV, you might want to wait until the TV is in place to ensure the speakers are positioned correctly in relation to the set.
Step 4: Install the Speaker
Remove the section of wallboard, reach into the hole, and grab the coil of speaker wire you attached to the stud. Trim and strip the extra length of cable, but leave enough wire so it can be connected to the speaker outside the wall (trimming short is a common newbie mistake). If your speaker has installation brackets, mount them now. Strip away enough wire insulation so the cable can easily be attached to the speaker terminals. Now is a good time to turn on your system and make sure the speaker is working properly.
Step 5: Finish the Job
If you plan to paint the speaker grille, some models have an insert that lets you paint it while it's installed. Use a well-thinned paint and a small brush or fine sprayer so paint doesn't cover the grille's holes, which would mar performance.
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